San Salvador. The name alone invokes an air of unease for many — myself included prior to first visiting. And while it still has some way to go before it’s a highlight on the world travel scene, there are still many great things to do in San Salvador.
For years, San Salvador remained near the top of every “most dangerous city” list. Today, however, things in the capital are changing faster than many can follow. A newly restored city centre is bringing life to an area of town many wouldn’t visit just a few years ago. Shopping mega-centres, hip cafes and craft breweries are giving rise to the gentrification of the once-notorious city.
Things to Do in San Salvador, El Salvador
San Salvador is a great spot to check out some fantastic monuments and really unique buildings, from early-20th-century architecture to modern shopping plazas.
Check out the Monuments
There are plenty of monuments spread throughout the city, but one of our favourites is the Monumento al Divino Salvador del Mundo.
The monument makes a fairly central hub in the city and is a gathering spot for many. In some ways, it is a focal point in which the rest of the city spreads and class is divided.
It’s an impressive sight, especially for sunset photos but is also a great place to watch skateboarders make use of the structure for play, or even to catch an impromptu concert or hip-hop show.
Explore the Newly-Restored City Centre
Plaza Libertad and the surrounding parts of the city centre were complete no-go areas just a few years ago. But in 2015, the mayor of San Salvador — now President Nayib Bukule — began a campaign to restore the area.
The city plaza is now bright, clean and, most importantly, safe! And while we didn’t venture out in the evenings, we’re told it’s not only safe during the evening, but becoming a popular hangout for locals, eager to celebrate their changing city.
New restaurants, cafes, and bars are opening up all around the centre these days, and the improvements are continuing to this day.
Take a Free Walking Tour of San Salvador
We’re huge fans of free walking tours, and try to do them whenever we arrive in a city for the first time. They’re a great way to orient yourself and get an idea of your surroundings. As well, if you only have a short time to explore the city, they’re perfect for visiting some of the highlights in a short window of time.
EC Tours is the ‘OG’ of walking tours in El Salvador, and we were so impressed with it during our first visit that we took the tour again just recently! And it was just as impressive as we remembered.
Edwin and his crew also do tours around the entire country, so if you’re looking to explore El Salvador with a tour, make sure to check them out!
Check Out San Salvador Street Markets
Venture through one of San Salvador’s busiest markets, like the chaotic afternoon market along Calle Ruben Dario, branching off from the city centre.
Bump through crowds of people selling everything from clothing and jewellery to pirated DVDs and live animals. The sellers do love touching and grabbing arms to bring you to their kiosk, so don’t be alarmed if it happens to you, its completely normal.
Keep in mind, however, that pickpockets love clueless tourists, especially in tight, busy places like these. So be vigilant, and keep your belongings close. Better yet, leave them at your hostel and just bring a few dollars to grab a snack or maybe a Gnucci purse or an Adidos hat.
Be Amazed by the Iglesia del Rosario San Salvador
The Iglesia del Rosario is an architectural marvel that can only be truly appreciated by witnessing first hand. Designed by Rubén Martínez, this stunning building is the epitome of the phrase “don’t judge a book by its cover.”
From the outside, this grey stone and metal structure is almost an eyesore against the newly-restored plaza. But step inside, and be transported to mystical surroundings.
The roof of the cathedral is full of coloured glass windows, that shines a brilliant rainbow throughout the building as the sun passes overhead. And from October to January, the “Eye of God” on the south-facing wall casts an even more impressive display on the pulpit.
It’s best to visit mid-day when the sun is at its brightest. And make sure you check out the modern art scene of the ’12 stages of the cross’ at the rear of the church. Even if you aren’t religious, it’s a very cool place to visit.
Visit the Crater of San Salvador Volcano
El Boquerón. Quetzaltepeque. It has many names. And it’s incredible to see first hand.
In a country of volcanoes, the towering peaks are a part of the landscape. It’s easy to take their presence for granted. But El Boquerón is different. Its proximity to the capital city makes it hard to ignore.
The fact that it’s still active — last erupting in 1917 — gives it an even more ominous presence.
But to truly appreciate its wonder, you need to stand on the edge of the crater and look inside.
The crater itself is 1.5 kilometres (5000 feet) wide and nearly 600 metres (2000 feet) deep! The national park is so massive that it has its own ecosystem, with all kinds of birds, lizards and other small animals. In the very centre, you’ll notice the crater within the crater, from the eruption of 1917.
How to Get to San Salvador Volcano
The cheapest way to get to San Salvador volcano is by local bus. Take bus #103 from Daniel Hernández Park in Santa Tecla (Southwest San Salvador). This route takes around 45 minutes and finishes just down the road from the El Boquerón Nacional Park entrance.
Uber is arguably the best and quickest way of getting up to the crater’s edge. The trip still takes around 30 minutes but is more direct. The biggest issue here is that cell service can be spotty to non-existent at the top. So organize the return trip ahead of time if possible.
By tour. El Boquerón is often part of a multi-stop tour offered by local companies such as EC Tours.
Check out the Rainbow Slide
This is a total tourist trap in every way. Is it worth visiting on its own? Probably not. But if you’re visiting El Boquerón, it’s just down the road from the Park.
Life-size animatronic animals greet you as you enter the open-air dining area of Picnic Steakhouse. The vibe is reminiscent of Cafe Albania, along the Ruta de las Flores (which now has a rainbow slide of its own!)
Aside from the curious art and tree sculptures, the main attraction for most is the rainbow slide. It’s a 35-metre slide of rubber or plastic, I’m not entirely sure. All I know is that it gets slick when they spray it with water.
You simply hop on an inflatable tube and hold on while you zip down the side of a volcano.
As mentioned above, it’s probably not worth a trip on its own. But worth checking out while paired with a visit to El Boquerón.
Shopping in San Salvador
If you’ve been travelling the region for a while or are just looking for a break, San Salvador is the perfect place to treat yourself. Even if you’re not much of a shopper, breaking travel routine with some modern familiarity can be a nice reset.
After travelling for a month in El Salvador, the modern conveniences of a mall were quite the treat.
Popular Malls in San Salvador are:
Centro Commercial Gallerias, near Zona Rosa, isn’t the most impressive mall in town, but it’s a great place to start. It has a food court and quite a few handy shops to help you restock supplies. It might not have the same brands you recognize from home, but they’ll do in a pinch.
What’s really impressive about this mall, is the construction. The mall was built on the site of a stunning colonial mansion. But instead of destroying it, the architect physically incorporated it into the mall! In the centre of the ground level, you can wander through the old mansion, using it as an access point to the second floor. It’s unlike anything we’ve seen before.
Metrocentro Mall is another popular spot, with many familiar shops and restaurants, and even a movie theatre.
In Zona Rosa proper, you’ll find Bambu City, one of the nicest and most complete malls in the area.
Get in some Nature at Parque Bicentenario
To get out of the dusty city without really leaving, spend an afternoon at Parque Bicentenario. On the west side of the city, this nature reserve has plenty of trails, playgrounds, activities and picnic sites to wind down after a few days in the busy centre.
Joya de Ceren
Known as the Pompeii of the Americas, Joya de Ceren is El Salvador’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. This archaeological wonder features an ancient Mayan village buried in ash following the eruption of a nearby volcano.
As a result, a moment in time has been incredibly well-preserved, encased in the earth for over 1400 years. It gives a fascinating look into Mayan village life during the peak of their civilization.
Thankfully, unlike Pompeii, it seems as though earthquakes in the days leading up to the eruption caused residents to flee. No bodies have been uncovered at Joya de Ceren — not yet at least.
The site also features a nice museum with Mayan artifacts such as tools, cooking dishes and food uncovered during excavation.
Hours | Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm
Cost | Salvadorans $1, Resident foreigners $7, and non-residents $10
How to get to Joya de Ceren
Getting to Joya de Ceren by bus isn’t the easiest. The best information we could find is to take bus #201 which runs between San Salvador and Santa Ana. Get off at the roundabout at Sito del Niño, and take bus #108 north to Joya de Ceren.
Otherwise, using Uber, a private driver or using a local tour guide is simpler, though more expensive options.
Lago Ilopango
Lago Ilopango is a massive lake on the outskirts of San Salvador. Wildly popular with locals, it’s surprisingly not often visited by foreigners.
The lake itself is actually a massive volcanic caldera. And it’s still active, with the last eruption happening in 1800.
In the centre of the lake are curious lava rock formations reaching out of the water, from more recent eruptions.
The lake itself has some nice, relaxing beaches and is great for kayaking, swimming, kite surfing or simply chilling out on the water’s edge.
Your best option for reaching Lake Ilopango is to take an Uber. It’s possible by bus but unfortunately, the suburb of Ilopango can be troublesome. It’s best to pass through with as few stops as possible.
Try Salvadoran Craft Beer
Unleash your inner hipster and hop on board the emerging craft beer scene in El Salvador. Several businesses have opened up shop in recent years, and I imagine it’s a trend that will only grow.
The two we enjoyed the most that are based in San Salvador, are Cadejo and Squirrel Eye Brewing. Both breweries have their own restaurants and are located in Zona Rosa.
If you have a little extra time, tour the brewery facilities and learn a little of how the beer is made!
Relax at a Hip Cafe and Taste Great Salvadoran Coffee
The changing San Salvador has given rise to a whole new cafe scene in the centre of town. So what better way to enjoy some of that incredible Salvadoran coffee than at a proper coffee shop.
And while you’ll find them popping up all over, we visited Fulanos Coffee, the first modern cafe to open following reconstruction. We were fortunate to visit with a friend, so we were given a decent sampling of what they have to offer. To say they know what they’re doing is an understatement.
From classic drip and pour-over to cold brew, lattes and other fancy coffees, we left both elated and extremely elevated.
See the New San Salvador in Zona Rosa
Zona Rosa is the more upscale district of San Salvador. Here you’ll find modern hotels, restaurants, shopping centres and embassies. Many foreigners live and work in this part of the city.
Some will tell you that Zona Rosa isn’t the real San Salvador. There’s a stark contrast between Zona Rosa and the rest of San Salvador proper.
Visiting Zona Rosa is especially important if you’re based in a more central location or have only experienced the centre. It’s worth seeing another side of a city with so much negative stigma. A side with bike lanes, hip restaurants and cafes, gastropubs with patios, nightlife and all the rest.
San Salvador is a city changing. And for better or worse, Zona Rosa is a glimpse of what may come.
Where to Eat in San Salvador
San Salvador is full of restaurants spanning the spectrum.
In Zona Rosa and Santa Tecla, for example, you’ll find everything from familiar fast-food chains and classic pub fare to modern, upscale restaurants.
For a more traditional experience, head to the city centre and pop in to one of the dozens of spots. Many offer delicious Salvadoran specialties at very affordable prices.
If you want the true Salvadoran experience, head to one of the busy markets and eat like a local!
A few of the more interesting places we’ve enjoyed during our visits to San Salvador are:
🫔 Tipicos Margoth, great for Salvadoran classics like tamales;
🍛 Food stalls from the wonderfully chaotic Mercado Central;
🍲 Sopon Zacamil, north of the centre a bit, this is a great place to try iguana soup!
Where to Stay in San Salvador
Zona Rosa Accommodation
Most hostels and hotels are found in the Zona Rosa, in the southwest part of the city. This is typically the hub for most expats and upper class. Here you’ll find everything from dirt-cheap dorms to the Crowne Plaza.
Although a lot of travellers are looking for a more ‘authentic’ experience, this is a great spot to be located for a couple of reasons. First, it’s safe. San Salvador still has its share of problems, especially in the north and east parts of the city. Secondly, it’s convenient. Catching buses, taxis, and Uber; as well as any self-catering needs will be much easier.
🛏️ La Zona Hostel – Budget (Our favourite hostel in San Salvador)
🛏️ Kaleo Hotel Boutique – Mid Range
🛏️ Barceló San Salvador – High End
City Centre
That said, things are changing rapidly in San Salvador, and the off-limits city centre is no longer so bad. There are many budget hotels and hostels you can find right in the centre of town. And staying right in the heart of the city, while it can be a little congested and noisy at times, is the best way to get a feel for the true San Salvador.
🛏️ Hostal Cumbres del Volcan Flor Blanca – Budget
🛏️ Hostal de Asturias – Mid Range
🛏️ Real Intercontinental San Salvador – High End
Where Not to Stay in San Salvador
As much as the city is improving, there is a lot of gang-related crime. Entire neighbourhoods are controlled by these violent groups. And while you’re incredibly unlikely to be targeted as a foreigner, it’s worth avoiding some parts of town altogether.
Illopango and Soyapango, on the east side of town, are the two most notorious. Mejicanos, in the far north, is another no-go-zone.
The only reason you should have to visit these parts of town would be to catch a bus heading up to Suchitoto or San Miguel. And it’s best to take a taxi to the terminal and not to wander off. You should have no issues if you stay close to the station.
The Complete Guide to Playa El Tunco
Experience El Salvador’s backpacker playground in the heart of Surf City. Jump from waterfalls, surf epic waves, enjoy delicious food, incredible nightlife and one of the best sunsets on earth.
Getting Around San Salvador
San Salvador Public Buses
Buses are everywhere in San Salvador. From the smaller blue-and-white microbuses to the full-sized models with all kinds of paint jobs. They’re by far the cheapest way to get around San Salvador, but you must know the system.
Unfortunately, at the time of writing, there is no longer a route map available online. Check with your accommodation and let them know where you’re headed, they should be able to give you the proper bus information.
Even if you have the right bus information, you must be careful, don’t make the same mistake that we did.
And always try to sit near the front of the bus.
Taxis in San Salvador
Taxis are one of the safest ways to get around the city, but they’re also the most expensive. Before boarding a taxi from the street, make sure you can see the driver’s official paperwork and registration, and agree on a price before leaving.
Although we’ve only had good experiences with taxis in San Salvador, there are stories of people being ripped off.
Get Around with Uber
Uber is by far the safest, cheapest and most popular way to get around San Salvador. If you’ve never used Uber, now is the time to start. The driver is registered in the system, you can track the ride, and there is no cash involved in the transaction.
In a city with sometimes questionable safety, why take the risk?
On that note…
Is San Salvador Safe?
This question will vary significantly depending on who you ask. If that person is from outside the country and has never actually visited, they’ll likely tell you it’s not safe. If you ask a Salvadoran immigrant, who fled the country during the bad years, what they have to say will likely be worse.
And it isn’t their fault. For most foreigners, their only glimpse into El Salvador is what they see on the news. And we all know that good news doesn’t sell. For Salvadoran expats, their memories are from a time when the country was either engulfed in horrific civil war or the post-war years of brutal gang violence.
Travel warnings don’t help the situation much either. True, they’re a good place to look to get a general idea of what to expect before visiting a new country — especially when that country has a tumultuous past. However, they often paint the grimmest picture imaginable of the current scene.
Take this example, from the Canadian Government website back in 2018:
“Violent crime—including homicide, armed robbery, carjacking, rape and kidnapping—is a serious problem throughout El Salvador and is escalating dramatically… especially in greater San Salvador”
If I believed every travel warning my government gave me, I’d never have left my mother’s womb. This was issued during our first visit to El Salvador. And based on our experience, and how we felt during our time, it couldn’t have been more inaccurate.
There is a lot of gang activity in San Salvador, especially in the surrounding neighbourhoods, but the violence is almost always held within that circle. And there still are a lot of problems with the gangs and their awful extortion practices against local businesses. It isn’t the safest place to live. But the problems, as horrible as they can be, are almost never involving tourists.
So, is San Salvador safe? Yes — and no. It depends on who you are, where you go, and who you associate with. But I’m assuming that you, and most other travellers, have enough sense of what is right and wrong.
Staying Safe in San Salvador
To stay safe in San Salvador, the best thing you can do is stick to certain areas of the city. The revamped centre of town, surrounding Plaza Libertad, is one of the safest parts of San Salvador proper these days. Avoid straying too far east of the centre, and you should be fine. North, up towards the university, is also safe.
West of the centre, along Alameda Franklin Roosevelt, passed Cuscutlan Park is also good. Outside of the centre the western areas, including Zona Rosa, are the safest, and most gentrified parts of the city. This is where you’ll find most embassies, foreign chain hotels and restaurants, craft breweries, and some shopping malls.
Santa Tecla, a suburb of San Salvador is another nice area, where many of San Salvador’s upper class live. Here there are plenty of upscale restaurants, more craft beer, and plenty of shopping.
Stick to these areas, and you should encounter nothing more dangerous than the same petty crime you can find anywhere. Follow our common-sense safety tips and you shouldn’t have any issues.
You can explore San Salvador outside of these areas, but it’s best to do so only after speaking to a trustworthy local first. A recent crackdown on gangs is dispersing them from some of their long-held turfs. They’ll likely head outside of the city, but there’s no way of knowing for sure. Check with your hotel or hostel before exploring too far.
Finally…
Get out and explore this lesser-visited and under-appreciated capital city. Help break the stigma that’s long held this city back.
Enjoy San Salvador and the rest of this wonderful country!
